An Interview with Winemaker, Barry Tortolon Q. How does your approach differ from others? A. Even though I was born and raised in the Finger Lakes, I am not sure that my approach is that much different from my peers who come from various wine regions. I try to keep fresh and up to date on what is happening in other countries that are leaders in producing quality wines. Trade journals are important as well to keep current on trends and other issues that arise. And of course, there is no replacement for simply sharing ideas and comparing notes with fellow winemakers. The winemakers I work with come from different parts of the world. Every time we exchange ideas or have a tasting it helps me broaden my knowledge and influences my approach to winemaking in the Finger Lakes area. Q. What is your opinion on Riesling produced in the Finger Lakes? A. Riesling is a grape that lends itself well to the area. It is one of the things we do well here. It can be made in a variety of styles from dry all the way to late harvest and ice wine. It grows well and tolerates NY winters. I believe like a lot of people that it is the grape that will put us on the map and on the international stage of winemaking. Riesling will help get us the recognition we deserve. We easily compete with Rieslings made anywhere else. Q. Which winegrowing region has had the most influence on you? A. Because of my training and experience I would have to say it is still California at this point. Having been trained in the Central Valley was an experience in itself. Just the sheer size and the amount of grapes that were processed was mind-boggling at the time. Also, having the opportunity to tour Napa and Sonoma while going to school gave me some insight in how to outfit a winery and a lab focused on the premium market. Q. How critical is ensuring the vineyards are well maintained to winemaking? A. Every winemaker will admit that good wine begins in the vineyard. To make sure we have the best grapes we can on this site, the owners went through the trouble of putting drainage tile in so the grapes don't have "wet feet". By removing excess water quickly, the vines are healthier, more winter hardy, and the vineyard team can get on the land in the next day to make sure they keep up with spraying and other tasks. We do leaf pulling, shoot positioning and are pretty good at weed control. By the end of August, bird cannons and electric fences go up to keep out the deer, birds, turkey, raccoons and any other creature that might like to taste our grapes. It is a lot of work but when the fruit comes off and you have the opportunity to make some great wine, it is worth the effort. Q. Summarize your achievements as a winemaker. A. Rooster Hill's mission statement and business plan clearly state that we are here to create a portfolio of premium wines that reflect quality and can be enjoyed by winelovers at all levels. We like to say we're serious but not snooty. There are a lot of new wine drinkers who are eager to learn about the different types of wines available, food pairings etc. Our objective is to develop a relationship with our customers as their wine tastes evolve. I enjoy watching customers try the wines in the tasting room and seeing their reaction. We have also been very fortunate to be recognized in some of the larger international competitions with gold and silver medals in our first two years.
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