|
In the News
As see in Finger Lakes Times, Monday, June 9, 2003
From Vine to Wine, by David Falchek
New Winery Just Sort of Happened
Amy and David Hoffman never intended to open a winery. Really.
Living on the West Coast, they became well versed in wine. When they visited their native Buffalo, they would visit the Finger Lakes and track improvement of the wines.
As owners of a summer home - and later a permanent home - on Keuka Lake, they had vineyards and wineries for neighbors. They may have thought about opening a winery or dreamily mentioned the possibility with a nudge.
But in the fall of 2000, when seven acres of former vineyard went up for sale across the street from their new home on Route 54, the thought became a temptation and then a goal.
A few weeks ago, the Hoffmans opened Rooster Hill Vineyards at 489 Route 54, south of Penn Yan. The 2,800 square foot tasting room and winery with a panoramic view of Keuka Lake will be surrounded by vineyards.
Amy was a marketing vice president for Ingram Micro; David has a tax and financial background.
But they have proven to be fast learners in the winemaking business. The seven acres they purchased near the lake had been a vineyard for over 100 years. As they replanted and restored the vineyard, the land became their classroom.
"We figured we can work this old vineyard and teach ourselves," Amy said.
Neighbor and long-time grower Lance Fullagar gave the Hoffmans some initial advice and got them headed in the right direction. Rooster Hill is one of the many members of the wine and grape community touched by Fullagar before he died earlier this year.
"Lance was great," Amy Hoffman said. "He got us going. I wish we had the opportunity to know him for more than two years."
The Hoffmans read books and attended seminars to bone up on grape growing and winemaking. David took a home study course in winemaking from University of California, Davis. In the fall of 2001, they purchased another 28 acres, tore out Concord, Catawba and Niagara vines and planted lemberger, cabernet franc, pinot noir, Riesling and gewürztraminer.
To be safe, they hired some consultants to me sure they didn't misstep.
For the first few months, Rooster Hill will operate with an abbreviated tasting sheet. For Riesling, Seyval, Cayuga and a blend of Vidal, Seyval and Cayuga call Silver Pencil. For those unfamiliar with coop jargon, a silver pencil is a type of chicken. The Hoffmans aren't exactly livestock experts themselves, buy Amy Hoffman picked the name Rooster Hill because the bird provided a decorative theme for her kitchen.
Rooster Hill has a Merlot, but that was purchased in bulk from Long Island. Prices range from $7.99 to $16.99.
In August, Rooster Hill will release cabernet franc, pinot noir, cabernet sauvignon and Finger Lakes Merlot. Eventually, however, all the vinifera wines will be made from grapes grown on site. Newly planted vines can take up to five years to yield a full crop. Grapes lower on the pecking order - hybrids such as Cayuga and Seyval - will be purchased.
The wines have earned a few medals, but the Hoffmans expect that in the future, they'll really have something to crow about.
"Once we have our own vineyards, we'll have more control over quality," Amy said.
The wine is being made by Barry Tortolon, a Finger Lakes-born, California-trained winemaker working part-time with Rooster Hill. Tortolon hails from a grape growing family and has worked in cellars at a number of area wineries. Gary McFetridge takes care of the vineyards.
"I can't think of another business where you grow the raw material, produce the product, and serve it to the end customer all in one location," Amy Hoffman said. "The best part is being able to see the customers' reaction."
Back to the top |